Considering myself a "gourmet traveller", it’s quite hard to establish bonds of affection with any restaurant: nine times out of ten the desire to experiment wins over the certainty that an already tried place can give.
Anyway, living in extended working exile in a famous mountainous region in northern Italy, roughly corresponding to the hydrographic basin of the Adda river (Valtellina… where the choices about quality food cannot be defined numerous), it’s not unusual for me to play the part of the usual customer.
Trippi -which has become my "refugium pecatorum" ever since- has undergone several changes in the past few years. Before 2014, under the previous owner, signs of exhaustion were exceedingly clear. It’s only when the chef Gianluca Bassola took over the place that the things begun to change: in a few months the song wasn’t the same anymore.
The underlying principle centres on high quality ingredients processed in simple and not distorting recipes. Thus it can happend that sucked out dishes, like Vitello Tonnato (veal with tuna and caper sauce) or Amatriciana (pasta with tomato, pecorino cheese and guanciale), can reach quintessential results. The menu is not against both sea fish and freshwater fish, and a selection of local dishes is always present, where we can find the lustful pizzoccheri (buckwheat noodles, with cheese, potatoes and cabbage). Some sporadic risky pairing (like cod and sausage ) doesn’t affect the overall quality.
Desserts keep themselves on the same level, with a due mention for the fabulous ice cream. The offer is integrated by a business lunch at 15€ and by a tasting menu with dishes from Valtellina at 25€. The enological selection is focused on local productions, with targeted integrations from other Italian regions. The service is diligent and smooth.
By all accounts I tend to consider Trippi one of the best restaurants in the valley: a winning formula based on quality with no compromises. Surely my first suggestion for anyone passing near Sondrio.
Prices (March 2017)
First courses: 12€
Main courses: 18-22€
Tasting Menu: 25€
Via Stelvio, 297
23020 Montagna In Valtellina (SO)
Tel. 0342 61.55.84
Closed on Sunday and Tuesday at dinner