Enthusiasm @ Spazio Milano – Milan

Spazio Milano

We can nearly call it "younger brother syndrome". Opening the second bistrot-style restaurant is an established trend for successful chefs. In this way they can propose the cuisine of the mother house, which has usually really important prices, in a simpler and more affordable way.

And the facts are, results are usually good… at least in the ones I experienced myself: I can only mention 108 at Copenhagen (extension of the famous Noma, for years considered the world’s best restaurant) and Cannavacciuolo Café & Bistrot, second house of one of the most mediatically exposed chefs in Italy. But Niko Romito, multi-starred chef from Abruzzo, doesn’t want to be outdone and added further interest in his own project "Spazio".

In fact, all the three restaurants under this brand are extensions of his professional cooking school "Niko Romito Formazione", and hire former students of the above. Under a wise and experienced supervision, the low average age of the staff becomes irrelevant, and all the energies derived from the overwhelming enthusiasm channelled in the right direction.

First of all Spazio Milano distinguish itself for its stunning position, suspended between the Duomo and the Vittorio Emanuele II Gallery, and despite this for having absolutely not exorbitant prices. The setting features iron tables and paper tablecloth, in line with the minimalist tendencies of the last years.

Everything proposed by the kitchen brigade, which draws fully from traditional recipes with minimum reworking and uses top class materials, reveals itself to be fully enjoyable. So, starting from pasta with turnip greens (typical dish from Apulia) and ending with a de-constructed tarte-tatin, the lunch flows with no hitches, supported by a digestible bill, making you forgive a small abuse of hotness.

Good oenological selection, even if a little bit stereotyped, and average coffee. In conclusion I like this project very much, and I’m not the only one considering the customer flow: an important award for a team at its début. Bravi!

Courses

Braised yellowtail, parsley, roasted onion Braised yellowtail, parsley, roasted onion
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Garofalo linguini with anchovies, chili pepper and turnip greens "Garofalo" linguini with anchovies, chili pepper and turnip greens
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Roasted sepia with sepia juice Roasted sepia with sepia juice
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Steamed cod, escarole, olive and capers, cod milk and lemon Steamed cod, escarole, olive and capers, "cod milk" and lemon
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Apple, cream and puff pastry Apple, cream and puff pastry
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Prices (November 2016)

Starters: 14-18€
First courses: 15-17€
Main courses: 16-20€
Dessert: 8-10€

Other photos

Pleasure Index

Spazio Milano

3rd floor of "Il Mercato del Duomo"
Piazza del Duomo 1, C/O Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Milano

Tel. +39 02 87.84.00

www.nikoromitoformazione.it/spazio/spazio-milano

Always open.

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