The dark side @ I Tigli in Theoria – Como

Tigli in Theoria - Como

Actually it reminds me more of an asterisk, but trying not to be ironic, the Michelin star is undoubtedly one of the most wanted prizes for a restaurant, considering its international fame and the real capacity to attract customers, with effective economic advantage. A power that other Italian guides retain much less.

Of course, just after a chef can pin the red badge on his apron, customers have to be cautious about the dark side: it’s widely believed that in newly-starred eateries, you can see prices leaven just like the bread .

To be honest I’m not particularly scandalized. Obtaining and keeping the award requires considerable investments and, when the milestone has been reached, there’s nothing wrong with reaping the benefits of one’s labour. Too bad someone gets carried away sometime.

For sure at Tigli in Theoria they are proud of their achievement, considering that the star is exposed everywhere in a menu showing definitely important prices. Since I’m a regular restaurant visitor, the search for a comparison with other places operating in the same price range is absolutely normal. The first experience that comes to my mind, probably being the closest in time, is the one at Mirazur, where the tasting menu is priced 140€, compared to the 130€ asked by the eatery in Como.

We are talking of far more important establishment, since the French restaurant holds two Michelin stars and position number 6 in the World’s 50 Best list, and this should make a few points, considering what you can obtain with the same money.

Franco Caffara’s inn offers a technically proficient cuisine, based on good raw ingredients, with basically a classical approach (this also meaning few emotionals peaks), but where the bill results indigestible, given in particular the high mark-ups on wines. I will just quickly mention the aperitif: a class of a vintage Franciacorta priced 20€.

The dining room is surely glamorous, with its location in a modern art museum inside a fifteenth century building, and the service is zealous and adequate for the customer target, but this time I thought more at the money I spent rather than what I ate that, as usual, you’ll find just below.

Dishes

Appetizer Appetizer
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Stuffed pumpkin flower with splash of red onion Stuffed pumpkin flower with “splash” of red onion
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Roasted lobster, claws ragout, "burnt wheat" cannolo, pumpkin flowers and dandelion Roasted lobster, claws ragout, “burnt wheat” cannolo, pumpkin flowers and dandelion
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Shades of the sea Shades of the sea
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Raw scallops, stracchino mousse, Italian Baerii caviar, squid ink coral Raw scallops, stracchino mousse, Italian Baerii caviar, squid ink coral
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Charcoal tagliolini, raw Mazara prawns, sour cream, Baerii caviar, chives Charcoal tagliolini, raw Mazara prawns, panna acida, Baerii caviar, chives
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Pappardelle stuffed with snapper, fish broth and Mediterranean powders Pappardelle stuffed with snapper, fish broth and Mediterranean powders
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Mediterranean snapper fillet, sour butter, chanterelles, chocolate soil, thyme gel Mediterranean snapper fillet, sour butter, chanterelles, “chocolate soil”, thyme gel
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Vanilla bavrois, raspberry, caviar Vanilla bavrois, raspberry, caviar
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Peruvian Illanka chocolate mousse, cocoa cookie, pipe tobacco ice cream Peruvian Illanka chocolate mousse, cocoa cookie, pipe tobacco ice cream
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Petit fours Petit fours
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Bread and thyme butter Bread and thyme butter
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Prices (July 2016)

Appetizers: 28-30€
First courses: 28-30€
Second courses: 30-40€
Desserts: 14-16€
Tasting menus: 120-130€

Approoval Rating

I Tigli in Theoria

Via Bianchi Giovini, 41
22100 Como

Tel. +39 031 30.52.72

www.theoriagallery.it

Closed Monday and Sunday evening

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