The last bastion @ Il Tabernario – Sondrio

Il tabernario enoteca delle alpi sondrio

Basically ignored by the “great” critics, not considering a quick appearance on Corriere della Sera in a list of wine shops in Lombardy, Tabernario (subtitle “Enoteca delle Alpi” ) is one of the most promising eateries( maybe the only one) in the city center of Sondrio, largest town in the Valtellina wine region, whose offer in this sector didn’t exactly shine in the last few years.

Opened at the end of 2011, the local didn’t find immediately his own identity: the formula is polyvalent ever since, and covers lunch, pre-dinner, dinner and afer… but it’s only when Daniele Pennati, an old acquaintance of my Italian language blog, took over the kitchen, that the gastronomic offer headed toward a precise direction, going away from the simple preparations of the beginning.

The cuisine of the young chef has always been characterized by a strong and original personality, even tricky for the traditionalist local clientele, but the placing in a more informal setting, compared to the ones of the previous experiences, seems today to square the circle. Continue reading “The last bastion @ Il Tabernario – Sondrio”