It’s quite difficult while thinking about Italian food not to mention pizza, being one of the usual stereotypes commonly associated to us. Being relatively cheap, pizzeria is by far the preferred eat out destination in Italy: today there are about 42.000 restaurants serving pizza, to which we have to add another 21.000 shops specialized in take-away.
The wide diffusion of the format, which is generally (and wrongly) considered as fast-food, led in the last few decades to a gradual and steady decline in quality. The medium lavel is actually good in Naples, and it could not be otherwise for obvious reasons, while the situation is quite tragic in Milan, where you could count the places where to eat a good pizza on the fingers of one hand.
According to urban legends the superiority of Campania capital would be due to the peculiarities of the public water. The aforementioned legends ignore dozens of more important aspects: the quality of ingredients, the ability of the maker, the temperatue of the oven, not to mention leavening times.
Anyway one of the best expressions of the famous Italian flatbread in Milan can be actually found just outside the city, in Legnano, 20Km north on the way to Malpensa airport. Here, in an anonymous building in an equally anonymous street works Bruno De Rosa, a pizzaiolo who values quality above all.
Indeed you’ll find a lot of doughs, even made from ancient flours, longly e slowly leavened and then baked thoroughly. The result is astonishing: a Napoli-style pizza (high and soft border and very thin center) topped with high quality ingredients. I’ll just mention the "4 pomodori" one, with four different types of tomatoes, including the peculiar yellow one from the Piennolo region,
It’s not worth the time to talk about the Spartan furnishing (everyone knows what to expect), but I’ll just spend some words on waiting time and service instead. The first can be very long in crowded evenings (even more than an hour) considering the care taken in the preparation. The latter usually varies from unfriendly to hot-tempered ;-). In exchange you’ll get the best pizza you can find in the range of at least 200Km.
I can just suggest you to come very early or very late. And if you find the place is full, just remember to order an appetizer ;-).
Around 25€ for pizza + beer + dessert
Montegrigna by Tric Trac
Via Grigna, 10
20025 Legnano (MI)
Tel. +39 0331 54.61.73
Closed on Monday